
The New Bread Basket by Amy Halloran starts off a little like Proust’s Remembrance of Things Past. The taste of a simple cookie, a madeleine, inspires a flood of memories for Proust. In Halloran’s case, an oatmeal ganache cookie, a treat from her husband, awakens a taste for flour and all that was entailed in bringing it to the oatmeal ganache cookie.
Despite the heavy presence of butter and chocolate, Halloran writes, she could actually taste the oatmeal. It’s a revelation that launched an obsession for flour, whole grains and the elevation of the farmer, miller and baker in our food chain.
Halloran was skeptical of the cookie, but it was more than she imagined it would be.
“Little did I know how many worlds that cookie would open,” she writes in the book’s introduction.
“Even against the backdrop of good butter and chocolate, I could taste the grains. Their flavour and freshness introduced me to the regional grain revival that was happening right under my nose.”
The Lost Culture of Grain, Milling and Baking
I read this terrific book a year ago and follow Amy Halloran on social media1. She’s a passionate grain aficionado. She has a mission to restore grain and the communities that work around it to the more meaningful role it played from the earliest civilization.
Halloran lives in rural New York state. She discovered a profusion of grain farmers, millers, and bakers that worked within a close distance to her home. The revelation brought on by that cookie set her on a quest to learn about grain, its uses, and the people who worked with the local product.
And it resulted in The New Bread Basket, an excellent book about the history and culture of bread and how modern processes have taken it away from its primary role in human civilization. Vast monocultural farming methods, industrial flour mills, and mass bread-baking operations have reduced bread to a mere commodity. It has produced gluten intolerance in people and high carbohydrate food products. Flour flavour and texture, are an afterthought. And the industrial control of flour and grain has separated us from the spiritual heart of breaking bread around the dinner table.
The story of wheat is the story of everything
Break down what our ancestors did to put bread on the table, and it’s a barely imaginable world. The work of tilling, seeding, harvesting, milling, and baking is invisible to all but a few of us, but it was hugely time consuming then. We have forgotten the knowledge of those eons of breeding, the lost crops, the way of life that centred around the wheat farms.
“The story of wheat is the story of everything,” Halloran says.
Halloran is a great storyteller with a journalist’s eye for detail. She tells of people and communities at home and around the world that are trying to restore the farmer-miller-baker relationship and revitalize pre-industrial bread making. Their stories often start with problems and seat-of-their-pants solutions that seem to work out. Before you know it, food co-ops have sprung up, farmer’s collectives, miller-bakers relationships, community pride.
One of Halloran’s characters is a farmer, Thor Oeschsner, who works a farm in Newfield, New York2. Growing wheat on a small scale, outside the U.S. or Canadian grain belts, may seem a crazy thing to do. Halloran colours Thor’s livelihood with the day-to-day tasks, interruptions, decision-making, and problem-solving. It’s not unlike a lot of ordinary jobs.
Birth of a grain community
The magic happens when Thor invests in a small bakery, the Wide Awake Bakery because it’s another market for his grains. Other investors might be millers, and community members interested in buying and eating well-baked bread. It becomes a grain-based community, where there was little before. All of these small-scale “artisans” in Halloran’s book are renewing the sense of kinship and sharing that bread meant to our ancestors a hundred years ago
It’s an inspiring look at this burgeoning new world that, in no small degree, I find myself on the edge of on my perch here on Pender Island. No one grows grain here, but each week I go to Nootka Rose Mill3 in Metchosin on Vancouver Island. I mill a small portion of the flour used in Happy Monk bread, but more and more, I use the freshly milled flour at Nootka Rose.
Local magic
There are small scale grain farms on Vancouver Island. Still, Nootka Rose imports its grain from Armstrong, B.C., nearly 500 miles away in the Okanagan region. `Fieldstone Organics, a certified organic grain handling facility that gathers whole grains, legumes, and seeds from local farmers. Fieldstone is a kind of grain clearing house. It’s much like the prairie wheat pool co-operatives that once distributed grain from Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Manitoba.
Nootka Rose is a mill owned and operated by two of Victoria’s best bakeries, Wildfire Bakery and Fry’s Bakery. Both operations use the grain milled at Nootka Rose that originated in Armstrong. Both bakeries are committed to whole grain, naturally-yeasted breads, and pastries. Their flour is the kind of high quality that you get from true “artisans.”
Jennifer and I love the weekend trips to Nootka Rose, where the Happy Monk flour/grain orders are waiting for us. The New American Stone Mill and sifter whirs quietly in the back part of the store. I often get a peek at it before the miller emerges, brushing flour off his clothes and face. There’s a fine layer of flour on the jars of preserves and store merchandise.
I enjoy talking to the miller about his job. How he tempers some especially hard grains with small amounts of water or how the millstones need to be dressed to keep them grinding the finest grade of flour.
It’s a pleasure knowing a little about this part of the production chain. I’ve never been to a grain farm to see the amber waves of grain, but it’s on our bucket list!
To the staff of life!
Milling a little corn to mix in with some marinated olives before they go into a tapenade infused dough. Big olive flavour … plus a rare shot of Mildrith, the wood-fired oven!
Nov 19

Milling a little corn to mix in with some marinated olives before they go into a tapenade infused dough. Big olive flavour … plus a rare shot of Mildrith, the wood-fired oven!
Happy Monk Tidings - November 15, 2023 BAKER`S CHOICE this week: Olive Sourdough Loaf; AND: An Emotional Weather Report [ See LinkTree in Profile ] 🍞
Nov 15
![Happy Monk Tidings - November 15, 2023 BAKER'S CHOICE this week: Olive Sourdough Loaf; AND: An Emotional Weather Report [ See LinkTree in Profile ] 🍞](https://i0.wp.com/happymonkbaking.com/wp-content/plugins/instagram-feed-pro/img/placeholder.png?w=980&ssl=1)
Happy Monk Tidings - November 15, 2023 BAKER`S CHOICE this week: Olive Sourdough Loaf; AND: An Emotional Weather Report [ See LinkTree in Profile ] 🍞
Happy Monk Tidings - November 1, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE: Sourdough Sandwich Loaf; BLOG: Don`t Let That Wonder Lawyer Tell You It`s Not Real Bread! [ See LinkTree in Profile ]
Nov 1
![Happy Monk Tidings - November 1, 2023 🍞 - BAKER'S CHOICE: Sourdough Sandwich Loaf; BLOG: Don't Let That Wonder Lawyer Tell You It's Not Real Bread! [ See LinkTree in Profile ]](https://i0.wp.com/happymonkbaking.com/wp-content/plugins/instagram-feed-pro/img/placeholder.png?w=980&ssl=1)
Happy Monk Tidings - November 1, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE: Sourdough Sandwich Loaf; BLOG: Don`t Let That Wonder Lawyer Tell You It`s Not Real Bread! [ See LinkTree in Profile ]
Dylan Thomas, one of my muses, would have been 109 years old this Friday, Oct. 27. One of a small-handful of poets whose words are cherished and summoned often for their music and wisdom. They soothe, they sing, they evoke. I`ll be thinking of him this bread day, under "the mustardseed sun"….. and the "switchback sea"…. as he "celebrates and spurns his driftwood thirty fifth wind turned age."
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#dylanthomas #poetsofinstagram #poetrylovers #poetryisnotdead #poetryofinstagram #poets #poetryislife #poetrylove #poetrydaily #poetryworld #poetryinstagram #bakerpoets #poetryforbakers #southpenderisland #penderisland
Happy Monk Tidings - October 25, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE - Sprouted Emmer Sourdough; BLOG: Happy Birthday, Dylan Thomas! [See LinkTree in Profile ]
Oct 25
![Dylan Thomas, one of my muses, would have been 109 years old this Friday, Oct. 27. One of a small-handful of poets whose words are cherished and summoned often for their music and wisdom. They soothe, they sing, they evoke. I'll be thinking of him this bread day, under "the mustardseed sun"….. and the "switchback sea"…. as he "celebrates and spurns his driftwood thirty fifth wind turned age."
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#dylanthomas #poetsofinstagram #poetrylovers #poetryisnotdead #poetryofinstagram #poets #poetryislife #poetrylove #poetrydaily #poetryworld #poetryinstagram #bakerpoets #poetryforbakers #southpenderisland #penderisland
Happy Monk Tidings - October 25, 2023 🍞 - BAKER'S CHOICE - Sprouted Emmer Sourdough; BLOG: Happy Birthday, Dylan Thomas! [See LinkTree in Profile ]](https://i0.wp.com/happymonkbaking.com/wp-content/plugins/instagram-feed-pro/img/placeholder.png?w=980&ssl=1)
Dylan Thomas, one of my muses, would have been 109 years old this Friday, Oct. 27. One of a small-handful of poets whose words are cherished and summoned often for their music and wisdom. They soothe, they sing, they evoke. I`ll be thinking of him this bread day, under "the mustardseed sun"….. and the "switchback sea"…. as he "celebrates and spurns his driftwood thirty fifth wind turned age."
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#dylanthomas #poetsofinstagram #poetrylovers #poetryisnotdead #poetryofinstagram #poets #poetryislife #poetrylove #poetrydaily #poetryworld #poetryinstagram #bakerpoets #poetryforbakers #southpenderisland #penderisland
Happy Monk Tidings - October 25, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE - Sprouted Emmer Sourdough; BLOG: Happy Birthday, Dylan Thomas! [See LinkTree in Profile ]
Happy Monk Tidings - BLOG: Abundance: Season of Apples; Baker`s Choice: Pender Island Apple Bread with Pender Apples and Twin Island Cider - October 4, 2023 🍞 [ See LinkTree in Profile ]
Oct 4
![Happy Monk Tidings - BLOG: Abundance: Season of Apples; Baker's Choice: Pender Island Apple Bread with Pender Apples and Twin Island Cider - October 4, 2023 🍞 [ See LinkTree in Profile ]](https://i0.wp.com/happymonkbaking.com/wp-content/plugins/instagram-feed-pro/img/placeholder.png?w=980&ssl=1)
Happy Monk Tidings - BLOG: Abundance: Season of Apples; Baker`s Choice: Pender Island Apple Bread with Pender Apples and Twin Island Cider - October 4, 2023 🍞 [ See LinkTree in Profile ]
Happy Monk Tidings - September 27, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE THIS WEEK: Harvest Bread; BLOG: Positively Fourth Avenue - [ See LinkTree in Profile ]
Sep 27
![Happy Monk Tidings - September 27, 2023 🍞 - BAKER'S CHOICE THIS WEEK: Harvest Bread; BLOG: Positively Fourth Avenue - [ See LinkTree in Profile ]](https://i0.wp.com/happymonkbaking.com/wp-content/plugins/instagram-feed-pro/img/placeholder.png?w=980&ssl=1)
Happy Monk Tidings - September 27, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE THIS WEEK: Harvest Bread; BLOG: Positively Fourth Avenue - [ See LinkTree in Profile ]
Happy Monk Tidings - September 20, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE: Garlic Levain Bread; BLOG: Harumph! Author Says Leave the Baking to the Professionals! [ See LinkTree in Profile ]
Sep 20
![Happy Monk Tidings - September 20, 2023 🍞 - BAKER'S CHOICE: Garlic Levain Bread; BLOG: Harumph! Author Says Leave the Baking to the Professionals! [ See LinkTree in Profile ]](https://i0.wp.com/happymonkbaking.com/wp-content/plugins/instagram-feed-pro/img/placeholder.png?w=980&ssl=1)
Happy Monk Tidings - September 20, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE: Garlic Levain Bread; BLOG: Harumph! Author Says Leave the Baking to the Professionals! [ See LinkTree in Profile ]
A hefty Country Miche, formula from Breadlines published by Bread Bakers Guild of America. Hefty in size, hefty in flavour. Four flours (Sifted Metchosin Wheat, Rye, Buckwheat, Spelt), a super-active levain and an intense crust colour. I think I’m addicted! It’s kind of finicky, though, and trying to work out a reasonable schedule to produce 40 loaves for Happy Monk customers.
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. #bread #realbread #naturallyleavened #baker #bakery #bbga #artisanbread #breadhead #sourdough #sourdoughbread #penderisland #southpenderislands #happymonkbaking #happymonkbakingcompany #wholegrainbread #breadhead #michebread #realbread #rusticbread #southerngulfislands #southerngulfislandsbakers #southerngulfislandsbakeries
Sep 14

A hefty Country Miche, formula from Breadlines published by Bread Bakers Guild of America. Hefty in size, hefty in flavour. Four flours (Sifted Metchosin Wheat, Rye, Buckwheat, Spelt), a super-active levain and an intense crust colour. I think I’m addicted! It’s kind of finicky, though, and trying to work out a reasonable schedule to produce 40 loaves for Happy Monk customers.
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. #bread #realbread #naturallyleavened #baker #bakery #bbga #artisanbread #breadhead #sourdough #sourdoughbread #penderisland #southpenderislands #happymonkbaking #happymonkbakingcompany #wholegrainbread #breadhead #michebread #realbread #rusticbread #southerngulfislands #southerngulfislandsbakers #southerngulfislandsbakeries
REMINDER: Happy Monk is on Summer Break! We`re off on our annual late summer respite. Next bread day is Sept. 22. See you then! (photo by Davy Joel Rippner)
Sep 6

REMINDER: Happy Monk is on Summer Break! We`re off on our annual late summer respite. Next bread day is Sept. 22. See you then! (photo by Davy Joel Rippner)
Happy Monk Tidings - August 30, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE: Mountain Rye Bread; BLOG: Making Bread and Art With A Message; NOTE: Happy Monk is on Holiday for the Next Two Weeks - https://mailchi.mp/ae234548bd1a/happy_monk_tidings_aug30
Aug 30

Happy Monk Tidings - August 30, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE: Mountain Rye Bread; BLOG: Making Bread and Art With A Message; NOTE: Happy Monk is on Holiday for the Next Two Weeks - https://mailchi.mp/ae234548bd1a/happy_monk_tidings_aug30
Happy Monk Tidings - August 23, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE: Bold Beer Bread; BLOG: Cheese Karma; More Happy Monk holidays coming soon! https://mailchi.mp/783a72739071/happy_monk_tidings_aug23
Aug 23

Happy Monk Tidings - August 23, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE: Bold Beer Bread; BLOG: Cheese Karma; More Happy Monk holidays coming soon! https://mailchi.mp/783a72739071/happy_monk_tidings_aug23
TASTE TEST! I’ve admired @eds_bred of Whistler for some time, though never been there or tasted their bread. But a generous customer brought me a loaf yesterday, a beautiful-looking Sesame-Poppyseed loaf. Coincidentally, I’d made a Sesame Sourdough loaf as my Baker’s Choice this week. How did the two loaves stack up? The Ed’s Bred’s loaf was gorgeous with a dark, sesame-poppyseed crust, lovely colour, subtle flavour. The wood-fired Happy Monk entry had a little less colour, but packed a powerful sesame whoomph. Great flavour for sesame fans! What can we learn from this?
(Looking forward to Ed’s book, Bred, coming in November!)
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#sesame #sesamebread #breadhead #breadlove #wildyeast #naturallyleavened #baker #bakery #bread #sourdough #sourdoughbaking #sourdoughbread #bakersofinstagram #artisanbread #realbread #rusticbread #woodfired #woodfiredbread #woodfiredovenbread #whistler #whistlerbread #sesamepoppyseed #penderisland #southpenderisland #happymonkbaking #happymonkbakingcompany
Aug 12

TASTE TEST! I’ve admired @eds_bred of Whistler for some time, though never been there or tasted their bread. But a generous customer brought me a loaf yesterday, a beautiful-looking Sesame-Poppyseed loaf. Coincidentally, I’d made a Sesame Sourdough loaf as my Baker’s Choice this week. How did the two loaves stack up? The Ed’s Bred’s loaf was gorgeous with a dark, sesame-poppyseed crust, lovely colour, subtle flavour. The wood-fired Happy Monk entry had a little less colour, but packed a powerful sesame whoomph. Great flavour for sesame fans! What can we learn from this?
(Looking forward to Ed’s book, Bred, coming in November!)
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#sesame #sesamebread #breadhead #breadlove #wildyeast #naturallyleavened #baker #bakery #bread #sourdough #sourdoughbaking #sourdoughbread #bakersofinstagram #artisanbread #realbread #rusticbread #woodfired #woodfiredbread #woodfiredovenbread #whistler #whistlerbread #sesamepoppyseed #penderisland #southpenderisland #happymonkbaking #happymonkbakingcompany
Happy Monk Tidings - August 9, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE: Sesame Sourdough; BLOG: Say A Prayer For The Perfect Loaf; ANNOUNCEMENT: Happy Monk Summer Holiday Schedule https://mailchi.mp/99197a16b166/happy_monk_tidings_aug9
Aug 9

Happy Monk Tidings - August 9, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE: Sesame Sourdough; BLOG: Say A Prayer For The Perfect Loaf; ANNOUNCEMENT: Happy Monk Summer Holiday Schedule https://mailchi.mp/99197a16b166/happy_monk_tidings_aug9
Happy Monk Blog - July 26, 2023 🍞 - Swimming the Neighbourhoods; how John Cheever`s short story, The Swimmer, made more sense to kids in the summertime. [See LinkTree in Profile ]
Jul 26
![Happy Monk Blog - July 26, 2023 🍞 - Swimming the Neighbourhoods; how John Cheever's short story, The Swimmer, made more sense to kids in the summertime. [See LinkTree in Profile ]](https://i0.wp.com/happymonkbaking.com/wp-content/plugins/instagram-feed-pro/img/placeholder.png?w=980&ssl=1)
Happy Monk Blog - July 26, 2023 🍞 - Swimming the Neighbourhoods; how John Cheever`s short story, The Swimmer, made more sense to kids in the summertime. [See LinkTree in Profile ]
Lay your head on this pillow soft Potato-Rosemary Loaf, breathe in the aromatic rosemary leaves plucked straight from the garden. And when you wake, a glorious wood-fired loaf awaits … you might spread a little butter, drizzle some honey and your dreams may come true!
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#potatobread #sourdough #sourdoughbread #woodfired #woodfiredoven #coboven #woodfiredovenbread #woodfiredbread #coboven #bread #sourdough #sourdoughbread #realbread #naturallyleavened #baker #bakery #bbga #breadhead #breadlove #baker #happymonkbaker #happymonkbaking #artisanbread #rusticbread #penderisland #southpenderisland
Jul 16

Lay your head on this pillow soft Potato-Rosemary Loaf, breathe in the aromatic rosemary leaves plucked straight from the garden. And when you wake, a glorious wood-fired loaf awaits … you might spread a little butter, drizzle some honey and your dreams may come true!
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#potatobread #sourdough #sourdoughbread #woodfired #woodfiredoven #coboven #woodfiredovenbread #woodfiredbread #coboven #bread #sourdough #sourdoughbread #realbread #naturallyleavened #baker #bakery #bbga #breadhead #breadlove #baker #happymonkbaker #happymonkbaking #artisanbread #rusticbread #penderisland #southpenderisland
Happy Monk Blog - July 12, 2023 🍞 - "Nothing I Cared in the Lamb White Days" - Climate change and watching the moon rise over the Salish Sea. [ See LinkTree in Profile ]
Jul 12
![Happy Monk Blog - July 12, 2023 🍞 - "Nothing I Cared in the Lamb White Days" - Climate change and watching the moon rise over the Salish Sea. [ See LinkTree in Profile ]](https://i0.wp.com/happymonkbaking.com/wp-content/plugins/instagram-feed-pro/img/placeholder.png?w=980&ssl=1)
Happy Monk Blog - July 12, 2023 🍞 - "Nothing I Cared in the Lamb White Days" - Climate change and watching the moon rise over the Salish Sea. [ See LinkTree in Profile ]
Happy Monk Tidings - July 5, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE: Olive Sourdough; ReBLOG: Salvador Dalí and the Art of Bread [ Click LinkTree in Profile ]
Jul 5
![Happy Monk Tidings - July 5, 2023 🍞 - BAKER'S CHOICE: Olive Sourdough; ReBLOG: Salvador Dalí and the Art of Bread [ Click LinkTree in Profile ]](https://i0.wp.com/happymonkbaking.com/wp-content/plugins/instagram-feed-pro/img/placeholder.png?w=980&ssl=1)
Happy Monk Tidings - July 5, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE: Olive Sourdough; ReBLOG: Salvador Dalí and the Art of Bread [ Click LinkTree in Profile ]
Happy Monk Tidings - June 28, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE: Spelt and Honey Sourdough; BLOG: Black Robe and Rise of the Machine [ See LinkTree in Profile ]
Jun 28
![Happy Monk Tidings - June 28, 2023 🍞 - BAKER'S CHOICE: Spelt and Honey Sourdough; BLOG: Black Robe and Rise of the Machine [ See LinkTree in Profile ]](https://i0.wp.com/happymonkbaking.com/wp-content/plugins/instagram-feed-pro/img/placeholder.png?w=980&ssl=1)
Happy Monk Tidings - June 28, 2023 🍞 - BAKER`S CHOICE: Spelt and Honey Sourdough; BLOG: Black Robe and Rise of the Machine [ See LinkTree in Profile ]
Long bake bake Friday … one problem after another. But all turned out well, including the proud and mighty Seed Feast loaves. Thanks as always to @leathersmithe for assistance and encouragement!
Jun 24

Long bake bake Friday … one problem after another. But all turned out well, including the proud and mighty Seed Feast loaves. Thanks as always to @leathersmithe for assistance and encouragement!
See Amy Halloran’s website here. On instagram, she is known as @flourambassador. Her feed is full of topical commentary and live interviews.↩
You can also find Nootka Rose on Facebook and Instagram.↩